Meditation cottages built into the cavern of a rock
Wilandagoda monastery which dates back to the 5th century BC is linked to the most enduring love story of Sri Lanka’s history.
The 500-acre little paradise, strewn with rocks and natural caves situated in the middle of a picturesque jungle, was the perfect hideaway for Prince Saliya, the only son of King Dutugemunu who reigned from 161 BC to 137 BC, and his lover, untouchable Princess Ashokamala, after they eloped to escape the royal wrath.
The king’s anger was triggered as Ashokamala hailed from a low caste, seen too lowly for a prince who was first in line to the throne. Saliya decided to sacrifice all the royal comforts for the sake of love and ran away with her.
The name Wilandagoda has a fascinating story behind it. One of the giants who was in the service of the king happened to meet the prince by chance when he was building a dam across a river. The giant, Neela Maha Yodha, revealed the accidental sighting to the king and said he would only divulge the place where the couple lived, if the monarch did not intend to harm the young royal who was utterly infatuated by the beautiful woman.
Dutugemunu agreed and paid a visit to the rocky terrain where his beloved only child and his bride lived. The couple offered the king a humble meal of burnt rice (Wilanda) and bee’s honey, and from that day onward the place acquired the name of Wilandagoda. A village, lake, rock cave and a temple have been named after the prince.
Wilandagoda is a protected archeological site, 13 km from the Wilpattu Animal Sanctuary, dominated by huge rocks, 66 caves, an astonishing network of ancient ponds, lakes, canals (indicating proofs to the existence of excellent water management system), statues, artworks, in addition to several dilapidated buildings bearing the richness of ancient Sri Lankan architecture.
Many of the buildings are in ruins. Only the bricks can be now seen in a damaged pagoda. The remains of a Dragon’s Arch, constructed with a very strong clay of grey colour, also can be found in the area. The exact historical period of the arch has not been determined. As there are scant historical evidence the experts conducting research on the site depend on archeological proof to a greater degree.
Evidence suggests that several kings ruling during different historical periods had built temples and pagodas dedicated to the monks who mediated in the tranquil surroundings. According to Maha Wamsa chronicles King Dhatusena (455-473 AD) built 18 temples. During King Mahinda’s reign (738 to 741) the place was known as Salawanya Temple. A total of 11 ancient inscriptions found on the site provide further archeological evidence and proof that there had been influences belonging to several historical periods. The inscriptions bear Brahmi characters with similarities to the writings found in Mihintale during the periods between 3-1 BC.
According to Ellawela Medhananda Thero’s book Buddhist Heritage in North and East, Wilandagoda was also known as Nadunnaru and mentions that the rough terrain with natural protection had functioned as a fortress for King Dutugemunu.
Among the rocks scattered in the area is a prominent one about 60 feet in height, suggesting that it had been used as an observation perch. The rock called Pohottu Gala, as it resembles a flower bud, with its bottom not wider than a couple of feet also suggesting that it could be toppled over without much difficulty to destroy attacking enemy forces. There are several similar rocks precariously perched on the hilly terrain.
Ven. Manewe Wimalarathne Thero who has conducted extensive research on the archeological site believes the Pohottu Gal are situated towards the east suggesting that they were used by Yaksha tribe to meditate in order to get the attraction of the moon.
Yaksha is one of the four main tribes ruling the ancient Sri Lanka before Prince Vijaya arrived from India with 700 followers and captured power. Princes Kuveni, whom he married and used to usurp power, was subsequently banished to the jungle with her two children. The stone ruins of her mansion can be seen in the Wilpattu Wild Life Sanctuary, just 13 km from Wilandagoda.
Most of the valuable finds are in ruins or been vandalized by treasure hunters. One prominent victim is a statue of the Buddha which had been constructed by using rare Chandrakantha soil. It is partially destroyed and sinking into the earth.
There are ruins of a building measuring 15 meters by 13 meters built on nine-foot tall stone pillars which Wimalarathne Thero believes to be the house of Princess Kavilashapati, Kuveni’s mother. He says Wilandagoda had been used as a marketing centre by the Yaksha tribe.
Presently, four Buddhist monks are residing here engaged in meditation under extremely difficult situation. The Chief Abbot of the temple, Anuradhapura Nandawimala Thero says he has been living in Wilandagoda since 2007. Though there are 60 caves that can be used for meditation, lack of facilities had made life difficult for hermit monks. He says after the establishment of the meditation centre in 2007 the treasure hunters had stopped coming.
“We are unable to go begging for alms as the nearest village is 15 km away, only accessible via a dirt road through the jungle inhabited by wild elephants, bears and leopards. We don’t have facilities like electricity or water and most of the time we meditate by surviving on one meal a day,” the monk told the Dinamina daily last September requesting the installation of a tube well to overcome the shortage of water.
“That will not only quench our thirst but also will help the wild animals facing lack of water sources for their needs too,” the monk said.
Wilandagoda which can be described as a paradise for nature lovers is also home to a variety of rare medicinal plants and trees like Heeressa (Cissus quadrangularis), bottle gourd (Lagenaria siceraria), thelambu (sterculia foetida). A rare bird of prey, Kurulugoya, also known as Shikra, is seen in the vicinity.
Wilandagoda is situated about 12 km off the 17th mile post on Puttalam-Anuradhapura road. – newstrails.com
