Vasantha’s watercolour painting of the Dalada Maligawa and its surroundings
Artist Vasantha Perera’s book ‘Kandy A Sketchbook’ is a timely reminder needed to protect the vanishing heritage of Kandy, the last kingdom of Sri Lanka.
Tucked away among the beautiful hills, the city, in addition to being a must-see destination of every tourist visiting the country, is a Unesco-nominated World Heritage Site. Perera in his introduction to the artistically-produced volume says the city acquired World Heritage status ‘because of the ancient buildings and their architectural, historical and beautiful landmarks imbued with archeological value and a uniqueness created through a blend of nature and human endeavour’.
The volume contains a stunning collection of the author’s own watercolours, sketches, drawings, photographs and paintings from a couple of renown art collectors in Sri Lanka. His paintings and sketches too include various wood carvings, frescoes, weaponry used in the Kandy era, sartorial preferences of Upcountry noble men and women, ceremonial costumes of traditional dancers and household items like combs, spectacle cases, key chains, bulath heppuwa (receptacle to hold betel leaves) and ordinary folks clad in dresses common to the region.
The Dalada Maligawa or the Sacred Temple of the Tooth Relic, Kiri Muhuda or the Kandy Lake surrounded by the Wall of Clouds and a couple of other places like Ambakke Devale figure prominently in the bucket list of any local and foreign visitors to the ancient kingdom but Perera says there are dozens of other lesser known sites with similar archeological and historical value spread among the hills.
Today most of these monuments are neglected and vandalised while the corrosive nature of the elements has made matters worse. Some ancient edifices are disfigured by billboards, hoardings and rampant advertising and it is sad to note the callous disregard by the authorities and failure to protect the cultural heritage of an important era of Sri Lanka’s ancient history.
Perera’s beautiful sketches of Ambalamas (travellers’ resting places built along ancient highways) portray some structures which are as old as 300 years and now neglected and disfigured by political and advertising posters apart from becoming resting places for stray dogs and birds.
For example, Embakke Ambalama constructed by King Bhuvanekabahu IV of Gampola is now only a collection of stone pillars. Sirimalwatte Ambalama built during Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe’s reign has been reduced to a bus stop. Some pinthaliyas – metal or earthen pots of drinking water kept for the wayfarers to quench their thirst – have gone missing.
Perera dedicates a section of the book for Tampita Vihara tradition that was popular in 18th and 19th centuries. According to this Buddhist architecture style the image houses were built on pillars or stills and the author adds: “Perhaps the particular climatic conditions of the terrain was responsible for propping up of these buildings. The temples which offer majestic façade not only veers away from the humid earth but also away from termites. This type of architecture can be seen in Araththana Tampita Viharaya (this forgotten shrine is situated on difficult terrain among the dense tea and pepper foliage), Medawala shrine dating back to 1st century BC to the reign of Valagambahu, Ambuluwawa Dantha Paya (Built during the reign of Parakramabahu VI and restored by a prelate in Wattegama circa 1800), Lewke Wallauwa Tampita Viharaya (said to have been built by nobleman Lewke with beautiful murals adorning the doors), Polambegoda Viharaya and Kumbaloluwa Tampita Viharaya (hidden in the mountain terrain in Appalagoda and many inhabitants in the area are unaware that such a historical edifice is existing in their proximity).
The book also offers details about grand walauwas (mansions of the Kandy noblemen). Vasantha says hundreds of people pass Yatinumwara Street in Kandy town every day without an inkling of historical significance of Girihagama Walauwa situated there. The ground floor of this magnificent city structure has become a market place for fruit and confectionary vendors, and cafes.
The author draws the readers’ attention to many other forgotten structures of historical value. One is the Bogoda Palama spanning over Gallanda River. The bridge which had been constructed in the 12th century according to an inscription that can be found there. The bridge with is one of the few surviving ones in the island with a roof in the island presently has 300-year-old timber. Another forgotten period piece is the cast iron water fountain funded by the British coffee planters in 1876 to mark the visit by the Prince of Wales. Today it has become the haunt of stray dogs and crows. The author says “When I set my eyes on it I imagine myself to be in Europe”.
The 80-page volume contains a sketch of Ambakke Wee Atuwa (storehouse of paddy) where paddy, rice and other grain offered to the Devales are stored. There is also a stone canoe (oruwa) used to churn traditional paints made from plants and tree barks for the use of annual Kandy procession decorations and costumes. Another landmark in the area is arch bridge across Nanu Oya on Colombo-Kandy highway constructed in 1824. It comprises of three brick-built arches akin to the ones frequently seen in British countryside.
Vasantha who studied at Mahanama College and in the City School of Architecture in Colombo is a professional artist. He has authored two more Sketch Book volumes about Jaffna and Colombo which are must-have items of any library or personal collections. What is different between us and other nations is the uniqueness of the Sri Lankan culture with a rich tradition of architecture and time-honoured style of construction in perfect harmony with nature. The dedicated service of this young artist to the nation to protect its glorious heritage should be appreciated and encouraged. – Somasiri Munasinghe
